Kabul in 3, 5 or 7 days

Photo: Mohammad Husaini

1. Morning Pul-e Khishti mosque and Ka Faroshi

   Start at the big mosque by the river; behind it are the lanes of the bird sellers, with painted cages of partridges and nightingales. Friday morning is the busiest.

2. Morning Shah-Do Shamshira mosque

   A yellow two-storey mosque with European-style windows on the river bank. See it from outside, and not at prayer time.

3. Afternoon Mandawi bazaar and Sarai Shahzada

   Mandawi is all dried fruit, spices and rice. In Sarai Shahzada, the money market, the money changers set the dollar rate for the whole country.

4. Evening Chainaki by the bird market

   Lamb, split peas and onion cooked slowly in clay teapots, with bread and green tea. It sells out by mid-afternoon, so go early.

Photo: Ninaras · CC BY 4.0

1. Morning Babur's Garden350 AFN

   The Mughal emperor's terraced garden, with a view over the city. Babur's own tomb was padlocked in 2026.

2. Afternoon The National Museum100 AFN

   Buddhist sculpture, the Begram ivories and the story of Afghanistan in objects. Photos, even with a phone, cost 200 afghanis extra.

3. Afternoon Darul Aman Palace500 AFN

   The 1920s palace at the end of the long avenue, restored. You usually go in with a local guide.

4. Evening Bibi Mahru hill

   Sunset over Kabul. Do not photograph the embassies or guards below.

Photo: Jawid Rezaie · CC BY-SA 4.0

By road: West of Kabul by hired car with a driver.

1. Morning Qargha lake

   A reservoir under the mountains, with boats and tea by the water. Free to enter.

2. Afternoon Paghman gardens and the Arch of Victory500 AFN

   The palace gardens and the 1920s triumphal arch. The palace building itself is closed.

3. Evening Rosh at Hamesha Bahar

   By the Paghman river: rosh, a stew of lamb and potato.

Photo: Tigerlily143 · CC BY-SA 4.0

By road: Across the Shomali plain; the Kabul permit is enough.

1. Morning The pottery workshops

   Potters throw turquoise and green glazed bowls by hand and fire them in kilns. You can buy from them directly.

2. Afternoon The valley and the vineyards

   Lunch by the stream under mulberry and plane trees, looking down over the Shomali plain.

Photo: Suliman Sallehi

1. Morning The OMAR mine museum500 AFN

   The history of landmines in Afghanistan and of clearing them, with a guide. Book ahead.

2. Afternoon Chicken Street

   Shops of carpets, lapis, embroidery and old things. Bargain; antiques may not leave the country without permission.

3. Evening Sheer yakh and bolani

   Hand-churned ice cream with cardamom and rosewater, and bolani fried to order.

Photo: Mirwais Mohammadi

By road: Through Jabal Saraj and Gulbahar, with several checkpoints. Panjshir must be on your permit. In June 2026 women visitors were turned back at the entrance to Panjshir: ask before you go.

1. All day The valley and the river

   Walk by the river, eat mulberries in summer, and lunch on fish or kebab by the water. Be back before dark.

2. Afternoon Ahmad Shah Massoud's tomb

   On a hill above the valley. Phones are taken at the gate, and photographs are not allowed.

Photo: Mohammad Husaini

1. Morning Koh-e Asmai, TV Hill

   Take a taxi up for the view over the whole city. Do not photograph the masts or the guards.

2. Afternoon Kabul Zoo100 AFN

   By the Kabul River in Deh Mazang, where Kabul families go.

3. Evening Dried fruit and saffron

   Raisins, walnuts, dried mulberries and Herat saffron from Mandawi or Shahr-e Naw, and a last Kabuli palaw.